Why do light bulbs blow ?
Help! My light bulb has blown and fused all my lights! We've all been there; you walk into your house after a hard day at work, go to switch on the main light and phut, darkness! Don't panic! When filament or incandescent light bulbs go to that lightbulb graveyard in the sky, they tend to trip out today
Orignal From: Why do light bulbs blow ??
Friday, November 6, 2009
Buying a car on ebay..take my advice before you do!
BUYING A NEW CAR IS AN EXCITING TIME HOWEVER THERE ARE A LOT OF PITFALLS AND PEOPLE HAPPY TO CON YOU OUT OF YOUR HARD EARNED CASH
AS I AM IN THE MOTOR TRADE I CAN ONLY REALLY ADVISE YOU ON
Orignal From: Buying a car on ebay..take my advice before you do!
AS I AM IN THE MOTOR TRADE I CAN ONLY REALLY ADVISE YOU ON
Orignal From: Buying a car on ebay..take my advice before you do!
WAX POLISHING MADE EASY JUST "JOF IT"
Many thanks for taking time to have a look at our advise on making the very best of our products, here at Jofs wax products we supply our customers with the very best wax products at a sensible value for money
Orignal From: WAX POLISHING MADE EASY JUST "JOF IT"
Orignal From: WAX POLISHING MADE EASY JUST "JOF IT"
2CV Citroen Cars: Model A,Charleston,Spot,Beachcomber
2CV Citroen Cars
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic 2CV Citroen car art featured in this guide please click here.
With its unassuming nostalgic charm, the Duck was the embodiment of an entire philosophy. After 41 years of production, and over five-million examples, one of the last truly distinctive cars of this century quietly breathed its last in Portuguese exile in July 1990.
2 CV ( model A )
Formally launched in October 1948 at the Paris Auto Show, the 2CV caused a sensation. Despite critical remarks from the press, more than a million visitors passed by three mouse-grey 2CVs on the Citroen stand and the orders piled up for the model, selling at the very reasonable price of 185,000 (old) Francs. The 9hp model A used a flat-twin, air-cooled engine of 375cc. It featured all-independent suspension, linked front to rear with drum brakes on all four wheels. There were no indicators, doors without locks, no ignition key (starter button on facia) and only one rear lamp.
2CV ( model AZA )
The 2CV underwent its first major facelift in 1960, with the introduction of a new front grille (with five bars). The heavily ribbed bonnet was now replaced by a smoother affair with only five ribbing lines and the side louvres disappeared in favour of a steam-lined air intake. The 375cc engine was at last discontinued in 1961. The only major changes that occurred during the 1960s were the addition of a third side window at the rear and another minor grille change, when the chevrons were moved up to the bonnet.
2CV Van ( Camionette )
Load carrying versions of the 2CV have an equally passionate following as the standard passenger cars. This unique vehicle began life in France as early as 1951 where it was known as the AU van or Fourgonette. It was fitted with the 375cc engine and had a payload of 250kg. Due to their corrugated appearance, these early vans were often scorned by detractors as "tin shacks on wheels" - but to their many owners they were a cheap and convenient way of carrying substantial loads with ease.
2CV Spot ( Special Orange Tenere )
The Spot is interesting in that it was the first 2CV special edition. In fact, "specials" were not common at all in 1976 and Spot was one of the first by any manufacturer. It featured orange and white adhesive body-stripes. Seats and hood were in orange, with and orange and white striped sunblind, which could be pulled forward to provide shade for the driver and front seat passenger when the hood was rolled back. The name Spot was an acronym for Special Orange Tenere. Today, few examples survive.
2CV Charleston
The 2 CV Charleston was produced in three distinct colour schemes, Delage red and black being the most popular. Originally a special edition of limited number, its production was extended to match demand. The two other Charleston colour schemes were light grey/dark grey and yellow/black and these were strictly limited in number. Charlestons were popular in Britain and Holland, less so in France. These models have the air of sophisticated town cars, rather than the practical, down to earth working vehicle, which describes most plainly painted 2CVs.
2CV Beachcomber ( or France 3/Transat )
Plain colours always remained more popular for 2CVs in France, although the France 3, a white car with a blue stripe to its panel and hood, did find favour. France 3 was a yacht entered in the America's Cup races, and part of the profits from the sale of the car went towards its construction and participation. As this bore little interest outside its country of origin, the same car in England was known as the Beachcomber and in Holland the model was called the Transat.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Orignal From: 2CV Citroen Cars: Model A,Charleston,Spot,Beachcomber
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic 2CV Citroen car art featured in this guide please click here.
With its unassuming nostalgic charm, the Duck was the embodiment of an entire philosophy. After 41 years of production, and over five-million examples, one of the last truly distinctive cars of this century quietly breathed its last in Portuguese exile in July 1990.
2 CV ( model A )
Formally launched in October 1948 at the Paris Auto Show, the 2CV caused a sensation. Despite critical remarks from the press, more than a million visitors passed by three mouse-grey 2CVs on the Citroen stand and the orders piled up for the model, selling at the very reasonable price of 185,000 (old) Francs. The 9hp model A used a flat-twin, air-cooled engine of 375cc. It featured all-independent suspension, linked front to rear with drum brakes on all four wheels. There were no indicators, doors without locks, no ignition key (starter button on facia) and only one rear lamp.
2CV ( model AZA )
The 2CV underwent its first major facelift in 1960, with the introduction of a new front grille (with five bars). The heavily ribbed bonnet was now replaced by a smoother affair with only five ribbing lines and the side louvres disappeared in favour of a steam-lined air intake. The 375cc engine was at last discontinued in 1961. The only major changes that occurred during the 1960s were the addition of a third side window at the rear and another minor grille change, when the chevrons were moved up to the bonnet.
2CV Van ( Camionette )
Load carrying versions of the 2CV have an equally passionate following as the standard passenger cars. This unique vehicle began life in France as early as 1951 where it was known as the AU van or Fourgonette. It was fitted with the 375cc engine and had a payload of 250kg. Due to their corrugated appearance, these early vans were often scorned by detractors as "tin shacks on wheels" - but to their many owners they were a cheap and convenient way of carrying substantial loads with ease.
2CV Spot ( Special Orange Tenere )
The Spot is interesting in that it was the first 2CV special edition. In fact, "specials" were not common at all in 1976 and Spot was one of the first by any manufacturer. It featured orange and white adhesive body-stripes. Seats and hood were in orange, with and orange and white striped sunblind, which could be pulled forward to provide shade for the driver and front seat passenger when the hood was rolled back. The name Spot was an acronym for Special Orange Tenere. Today, few examples survive.
2CV Charleston
The 2 CV Charleston was produced in three distinct colour schemes, Delage red and black being the most popular. Originally a special edition of limited number, its production was extended to match demand. The two other Charleston colour schemes were light grey/dark grey and yellow/black and these were strictly limited in number. Charlestons were popular in Britain and Holland, less so in France. These models have the air of sophisticated town cars, rather than the practical, down to earth working vehicle, which describes most plainly painted 2CVs.
2CV Beachcomber ( or France 3/Transat )
Plain colours always remained more popular for 2CVs in France, although the France 3, a white car with a blue stripe to its panel and hood, did find favour. France 3 was a yacht entered in the America's Cup races, and part of the profits from the sale of the car went towards its construction and participation. As this bore little interest outside its country of origin, the same car in England was known as the Beachcomber and in Holland the model was called the Transat.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Orignal From: 2CV Citroen Cars: Model A,Charleston,Spot,Beachcomber
Austin Cars :1100,1300,A60,A99,A110,A40,1800,2200,A105
Austin Cars
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic Austin car art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide profiles classic Austin saloons from the BMC regime of 1952 to 1968. Ranging from the humble Mini to the powerful and well equipped Westminsters these famous models dominated our roads for at least two decades. During the mid-1960s Austin offered the widest range available from a British manufacturer with no less than nine different saloon models varying in price from
Orignal From: Austin Cars :1100,1300,A60,A99,A110,A40,1800,2200,A105
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic Austin car art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide profiles classic Austin saloons from the BMC regime of 1952 to 1968. Ranging from the humble Mini to the powerful and well equipped Westminsters these famous models dominated our roads for at least two decades. During the mid-1960s Austin offered the widest range available from a British manufacturer with no less than nine different saloon models varying in price from
Orignal From: Austin Cars :1100,1300,A60,A99,A110,A40,1800,2200,A105
Varilight Energy Saving Dimmable CFL light bulb 100w
Welcome to the page that will hopefully tell you all you need to know about the Varilight Energy Saving Dimmable CFL Light bulbs, rated at 20w but have an equivalent light power output of 100wThe Varilight Dimmable Energy Saving Compact Fluorescent Lamp has won the 100% diesgn awards in September 2007 and has featured in a Greenpeace demonstration highlighting energy saving lighting.During the lifetime of these bulbs approximately 16,000 hours, grade A, far beating the competition, you can expect to save over
Orignal From: Varilight Energy Saving Dimmable CFL light bulb 100w
Orignal From: Varilight Energy Saving Dimmable CFL light bulb 100w
Municipal Buses Crossley DD42 Daimler CVA6 Leyland etc
Municipal Buses Of The 1950s and 1960s
This is one of many illustrated classic bus guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic bus art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide features several classic municipal buses from of the Fifties and Sixties.
Leyland Titan
Orignal From: Municipal Buses Crossley DD42 Daimler CVA6 Leyland etc
This is one of many illustrated classic bus guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic bus art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide features several classic municipal buses from of the Fifties and Sixties.
Leyland Titan
Orignal From: Municipal Buses Crossley DD42 Daimler CVA6 Leyland etc
British Lorries 1950s Leyland Dennis Pax Foden FE ERF
British Lorries of the 1950s
This is one of many illustrated classic British lorry guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic 1950's British lorry art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide features several classic British lorries of the 1950s.
AEC Mercury
Introduced in 1953, the low-weight AEC Mercury, produced at Maudslay, near Alcester, brought a new style to AECs with its flush mounted headlamps and wide dummy radiator grille. Park Royal Vehicles built most of the cabs but there were numerous others from proprietary bodybuilders such as Duramin, Holmes and Bowyer Bros. At 12 tons gvw the Mercury was a full 8-tonner. It was powered by the new AV410 98bhp diesel although for customers wanting a larger engine, the 125bhp AV 470 was an option.
Albion Claymore
Underfloor engines were being considered by several manufacturers in the fifties including Sentinel, Albion, Commer, Atkinson and Rowe-Hillmaster. Among the best remembered was Albion's underfloor-engined Claymore, launched in 1954 and aimed at operators requiring a three-seater cab such as in brewery and furniture removal fleets. It was powered by a horizontal version of Albion's 4.1-litre 4-cylinder diesel and had payload ratings of 4 or 5-tons.The Albion name disappeared in 1972, being replaced by Leyland.
Bedford S-type
Bedford's first civilian forward-control truck was the 7-ton S-type or "Big-Bedford" as it was christened by the marketing men. A completely new design concept for General Motors, its style was clearly influenced by the parent company's GMC trucks of the period. Originally fitted with a 110bhp 6-cylinder petrol engine a diesel option in the form of the Perkins R6 arrived in 1953 and in 1958, Bedford's own diesel. The S-type was discontinued in late 1959.
Dennis Pax
In the period that followed WW2, one vehicle that typified the local delivery brewers dray was undoubtedly the Dennis Pax. Available originally with the makers own petrol engine, a diesel engine option was offered later. With a wheelbase of 3.5m and a set-back front axle, the Pax was a plain vehicle built to the highest standards. It had no pretensions about following the styling trends of the post-war years. Whitbread were confirmed users of the products of the Guildford based manufacturer.
ERF KV
Edwin R Foden broke away from his family Foden concern and started to make his own diesel powered lorries in 1933 using proprietary units such as Jennings cabs and Gardner engines. A classic ERF model of the 1950s, with arguably the most striking cab design of the period, was the KV (
Orignal From: British Lorries 1950s Leyland Dennis Pax Foden FE ERF
This is one of many illustrated classic British lorry guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic 1950's British lorry art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide features several classic British lorries of the 1950s.
AEC Mercury
Introduced in 1953, the low-weight AEC Mercury, produced at Maudslay, near Alcester, brought a new style to AECs with its flush mounted headlamps and wide dummy radiator grille. Park Royal Vehicles built most of the cabs but there were numerous others from proprietary bodybuilders such as Duramin, Holmes and Bowyer Bros. At 12 tons gvw the Mercury was a full 8-tonner. It was powered by the new AV410 98bhp diesel although for customers wanting a larger engine, the 125bhp AV 470 was an option.
Albion Claymore
Underfloor engines were being considered by several manufacturers in the fifties including Sentinel, Albion, Commer, Atkinson and Rowe-Hillmaster. Among the best remembered was Albion's underfloor-engined Claymore, launched in 1954 and aimed at operators requiring a three-seater cab such as in brewery and furniture removal fleets. It was powered by a horizontal version of Albion's 4.1-litre 4-cylinder diesel and had payload ratings of 4 or 5-tons.The Albion name disappeared in 1972, being replaced by Leyland.
Bedford S-type
Bedford's first civilian forward-control truck was the 7-ton S-type or "Big-Bedford" as it was christened by the marketing men. A completely new design concept for General Motors, its style was clearly influenced by the parent company's GMC trucks of the period. Originally fitted with a 110bhp 6-cylinder petrol engine a diesel option in the form of the Perkins R6 arrived in 1953 and in 1958, Bedford's own diesel. The S-type was discontinued in late 1959.
Dennis Pax
In the period that followed WW2, one vehicle that typified the local delivery brewers dray was undoubtedly the Dennis Pax. Available originally with the makers own petrol engine, a diesel engine option was offered later. With a wheelbase of 3.5m and a set-back front axle, the Pax was a plain vehicle built to the highest standards. It had no pretensions about following the styling trends of the post-war years. Whitbread were confirmed users of the products of the Guildford based manufacturer.
ERF KV
Edwin R Foden broke away from his family Foden concern and started to make his own diesel powered lorries in 1933 using proprietary units such as Jennings cabs and Gardner engines. A classic ERF model of the 1950s, with arguably the most striking cab design of the period, was the KV (
Orignal From: British Lorries 1950s Leyland Dennis Pax Foden FE ERF
Lifan / Skygo LF125-30
Brought my LF125-30 bike from one of the internetbike shop dealers in Ashford Kent in September 07.
Orignal From: Lifan / Skygo LF125-30
Orignal From: Lifan / Skygo LF125-30
VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda Key Programming / Reprogramming
Hello everybody.
Firstly, I must apologise to all those who have purchased these instructions from me over the past few months.
From May this year, Ebay revised their Downloadable Media Policy
Orignal From: VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda Key Programming / Reprogramming
Firstly, I must apologise to all those who have purchased these instructions from me over the past few months.
From May this year, Ebay revised their Downloadable Media Policy
Orignal From: VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda Key Programming / Reprogramming
LED's and your car / motorcycle
There is a fair amount of misinformation about LED's for automotive usage.
So far the only light that CAN NOT be replaced by LED's is the main/high beam of your front lights. This is mainly due to the beam pattern produced by LED's. That being said ALL of the other lights in your vehical can be replaced with LED's. But I hear you ask 'Why should I change to LED's?' and the answer is that because LED's use less power than normal bulbs, so there is more power left over for things like your sound system or even for the performance coil and ignition system. More power = bigger/better spark = more horse power out.
The main thing to make sure of when using LED's is that firstly they are able to work at 12volts (as standard most LED's work at about 2.5volts) and secondly they are bright enough. I personally use LED's with a power output of either 1watt or 3watts (and believe me these are BRIGHT) and I can make a rear light for a motorcycle with only 3 x 3watt LED's and still have it completly legal and MOT'able.
When replacing indicator bulbs to LED you will notice that the flash rate increases hugely or on cars some of them try and tell you that you have a blown bulb. This is because the power requirement is so low, it is now around 0.7-1.4amps rather than 3.5-6amps, so you need to either use a new indicator relay (about
Orignal From: LED's and your car / motorcycle
So far the only light that CAN NOT be replaced by LED's is the main/high beam of your front lights. This is mainly due to the beam pattern produced by LED's. That being said ALL of the other lights in your vehical can be replaced with LED's. But I hear you ask 'Why should I change to LED's?' and the answer is that because LED's use less power than normal bulbs, so there is more power left over for things like your sound system or even for the performance coil and ignition system. More power = bigger/better spark = more horse power out.
The main thing to make sure of when using LED's is that firstly they are able to work at 12volts (as standard most LED's work at about 2.5volts) and secondly they are bright enough. I personally use LED's with a power output of either 1watt or 3watts (and believe me these are BRIGHT) and I can make a rear light for a motorcycle with only 3 x 3watt LED's and still have it completly legal and MOT'able.
When replacing indicator bulbs to LED you will notice that the flash rate increases hugely or on cars some of them try and tell you that you have a blown bulb. This is because the power requirement is so low, it is now around 0.7-1.4amps rather than 3.5-6amps, so you need to either use a new indicator relay (about
Orignal From: LED's and your car / motorcycle
Tom Tom Satellite navigation from emilyandlily
This is a record of our experience of buying a tom tom Go 910 from emilyandlily. The advert looked really great and we saw that they had a lot of ads up for this item and that they were a large seller. It was well written and very informative. It had good pictures and intelligently put together. We bid on a few of these before we won one. The price seemed to be amazing for the amount of kit that you get.We were slightly confused about where they were based, that is on the ad they say that they are UK based but when we came to pay it was to an American business. We emailed then to ask and they came back within a day or so to say they were shipping from the UK.The item arrived a few days after we won it. Not especially fast, I think it was about three or four days, but sent by courier and well packed, hand delivered.I opened the plastic bag and removed the box. I was gutted to see that there was a sticker on it saying that this was a factory reconditioned unit. I did not remember reading that on the ad. I looked at the ad again, and there it was, clearly stated. It is clearly stated in a fairly small box way down at the bottom of the ad under a awful lot of information about the product. It was certainly not hidden in any way but at the same time it was not put right at the top of the ad. See for yourself, it's easy to miss. I think that the ad is created to overwhelm you with information in the first three quarters of the ad so that it is very easy to miss. Also if you look at the top of the ad, under the section that says "condition" this section is left blank. Not "refurbished" or "return" just blank. Personally I think thats a bit naughty.http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
Orignal From: Tom Tom Satellite navigation from emilyandlily
Orignal From: Tom Tom Satellite navigation from emilyandlily
Eonon EO900 DVD GPS car stereo
Hopefully I can help some of you that may be experiencing the same problems I had when I purchased one last week, I couldn't find any shop willing to fit this unit into my car and me being me - I thought how hard can it be.....
The stereo head unit itself is very easy using a ISO connector, if you need one at all because the unit I brought came with it. The only issue with this is the wiring seemed to be wrong and when the unit is first powered up, its hit and miss whether or not its going to work - when
Orignal From: Eonon EO900 DVD GPS car stereo
The stereo head unit itself is very easy using a ISO connector, if you need one at all because the unit I brought came with it. The only issue with this is the wiring seemed to be wrong and when the unit is first powered up, its hit and miss whether or not its going to work - when
Orignal From: Eonon EO900 DVD GPS car stereo
Ford Explorer 1997-2001
The Ford Explorer was introduced into the UK market in 1997 and was deleted in 2001, following Ford's purchase of Land Rover. It
Orignal From: Ford Explorer 1997-2001
Buying Kawasaki Parts - how to use part numbers !
When you're buying parts for your pride and joy, knowing the part number, and understanding how the part numbers work can really help.
Orignal From: Buying Kawasaki Parts - how to use part numbers !
Orignal From: Buying Kawasaki Parts - how to use part numbers !
SELLERS FROM HELL - RETALIATORY FEEDBACK
No where else can you find:
SELLERS FROM HELL:
Orignal From: SELLERS FROM HELL - RETALIATORY FEEDBACK
SELLERS FROM HELL:
Orignal From: SELLERS FROM HELL - RETALIATORY FEEDBACK
MG-Rover heater fan speed problems.
A common fault on the MG-Rover 200/400/MGF/25/45/ZR/ZS models is failure of the heater fan speeds, usually on positions 1 and 2.
The speed control is achieved by using different value resistors switched in series with the motor, a three resistor pack is mounted in the fan housing behind the glovebox. Position 4 bypasses the resistor pack and allows the fan to run at full speed, this is a useful test as it proves that the Fuse, Relay and Fan Motor are working fine
The original
Orignal From: MG-Rover heater fan speed problems.
The speed control is achieved by using different value resistors switched in series with the motor, a three resistor pack is mounted in the fan housing behind the glovebox. Position 4 bypasses the resistor pack and allows the fan to run at full speed, this is a useful test as it proves that the Fuse, Relay and Fan Motor are working fine
The original
Orignal From: MG-Rover heater fan speed problems.
KTM 625 SMC LC4
i have just swapped from a 2000 GSX1300R Hayabusa to a 2005 KTM 625 SMC LC4 with 1,200 miles on it and after riding it a while i still smile every time i get on it, its not a long distance bike but if smiles is what your after you won't go far wrong..
Orignal From: KTM 625 SMC LC4
Orignal From: KTM 625 SMC LC4
Buying a GOOD used Classic Porsche 911 on eBay
A classic 911 is a fantastic car to own and drive IF you have a good one. If you have a bad one, and there are plenty to choose from, it could be your worst nightmare come true! Sadly, a number of people when they realise their nightmare try to offload the source onto some other unsuspecting person in exchange for their hard-earned cash so what are the warning signs which should make you look elsewhere? This is only a brief guide and cannot cover everything so do more research before handing over any cash. Always ask questions and if you don't have the knowledge or confidence to evaluate a car properly yourself then get someone else who has to do it for you. Never be fooled by shiny paintwork or alloy wheels as these things can blind you to hidden horrors.
Firstly, let's be absolutely clear about one thing: THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A CHEAP 911. If you think you've found one look again because it is much more likely that you are looking at a huge list of repair bills some of which could easily rival the cost of your 'cheap' 911! There is an old adage which says something like 'buy cheap, buy twice' and that is so true. A good 911 is worth money so why would anybody give you something worth say 20K for a fraction of that sum? Be suspicious of the old cliches involving divorces, demanding babies, house moves, leaving the country (with your money?) etc. as reasons for selling. Most serious owners would rather die than let go of their 911 so genuine reasons for sale will much more believable and much less urgent eg ''I've just bought a better one.'' If a seller actually said ''this car is in a mess, it's going to cost a fortune to fix and I can't afford it or be bothered anyway'' then you could pretty much accept that but you don't see that one very often, it's usually disguised with divorces and babies etc.Don't assume either that, for example, an early SC will cost less than one 5 years newer. It won't if it's a good one. Age is largely irrelevant except in the special case of the earlier classics which can cost as much as or more than new ones.
Probably the best place to start when sizing up a 911 is the documentation. Good classic 911s are owned by good owners and they tend to spend a lot of money and time keeping it that way so you should be EXPECTING to see a huge history file, preferably with the original service record dating back to day one. Genuine sellers will be very keen to show you their file which will contain evidence of serious care and will have big bills with it covering important things like the engine, gearbox, bodywork, heat exchangers, braking system, etc. etc. etc. You do not want to see a few bills for some alloy gizmos, a few tyres, a couple of petrol receipts, the latest ICE, and an air freshener. This is NOT full service history and is worth nothing and if the seller has nothing better to tell you about the car then you should leave it well alone. Don't accept just old MOT certificates and tax discs either as these are nothing more than evidence of the car being used on the public highway having satisfied basic road worthiness criteria. Beware the seller who tells you that the car has not needed anything doing to it because they are clearly telling about something called neglect and if YOU take the car on YOU will end up paying for it. If the paperwork isn't right or, worse still, missing then don't even consider the car because if you buy it then you will already have inherited a huge problem for when you come to sell the car again.
On the question of maintenance you will often see sellers proudly announcing how much has been spent on the car and if that is for the right things and the amount is consistent with good care over the car's life then that's fine and is in fact what you should be seeing, but how much is right? If you take a figure of 2K as being a conservative estimate per year to run a classic 911 and cover all of it's maintenance costs and servicing but not the boring stuff like fuel and insurance etc. then a 25 - 30 year old 911 should have receipts in tens of thousands of pounds (my own K series 'SC which is now 31 years old has had about 37K lavished on it so far) so when a seller of a 30 year old 911 announces ''bills for 15K''are they really telling you that little has been done to look after this car over it's lifetime?
The biggest area for concern, and one which is commonly glossed over in many ebay listings is the condition of the bodywork ie RUST. Some sellers would have you believe that the tiny spot of rust under the headlights and around the door-shuts etc. is nothing to worry about and wouldn't cost much to fix, however this IS something to worry about a lot and actually costs an arm and a leg to repair properly because if the value and integrity of the car are to be preserved then genuine, galvanised Porsche parts must be used and with one front wing currently costing around 600GBP you will begin to see that once labour costs and VAT are added this 'minor' repair is actually going to run into thousands. If you opt for the cheap and flimsy aftermarket panels you will end up doing it all again very soon anyway. This was my own car just before restoration. Doesn't look bad does it and similar to the sort of thing seen listed on ebay?................
Orignal From: Buying a GOOD used Classic Porsche 911 on eBay
Firstly, let's be absolutely clear about one thing: THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A CHEAP 911. If you think you've found one look again because it is much more likely that you are looking at a huge list of repair bills some of which could easily rival the cost of your 'cheap' 911! There is an old adage which says something like 'buy cheap, buy twice' and that is so true. A good 911 is worth money so why would anybody give you something worth say 20K for a fraction of that sum? Be suspicious of the old cliches involving divorces, demanding babies, house moves, leaving the country (with your money?) etc. as reasons for selling. Most serious owners would rather die than let go of their 911 so genuine reasons for sale will much more believable and much less urgent eg ''I've just bought a better one.'' If a seller actually said ''this car is in a mess, it's going to cost a fortune to fix and I can't afford it or be bothered anyway'' then you could pretty much accept that but you don't see that one very often, it's usually disguised with divorces and babies etc.Don't assume either that, for example, an early SC will cost less than one 5 years newer. It won't if it's a good one. Age is largely irrelevant except in the special case of the earlier classics which can cost as much as or more than new ones.
Probably the best place to start when sizing up a 911 is the documentation. Good classic 911s are owned by good owners and they tend to spend a lot of money and time keeping it that way so you should be EXPECTING to see a huge history file, preferably with the original service record dating back to day one. Genuine sellers will be very keen to show you their file which will contain evidence of serious care and will have big bills with it covering important things like the engine, gearbox, bodywork, heat exchangers, braking system, etc. etc. etc. You do not want to see a few bills for some alloy gizmos, a few tyres, a couple of petrol receipts, the latest ICE, and an air freshener. This is NOT full service history and is worth nothing and if the seller has nothing better to tell you about the car then you should leave it well alone. Don't accept just old MOT certificates and tax discs either as these are nothing more than evidence of the car being used on the public highway having satisfied basic road worthiness criteria. Beware the seller who tells you that the car has not needed anything doing to it because they are clearly telling about something called neglect and if YOU take the car on YOU will end up paying for it. If the paperwork isn't right or, worse still, missing then don't even consider the car because if you buy it then you will already have inherited a huge problem for when you come to sell the car again.
On the question of maintenance you will often see sellers proudly announcing how much has been spent on the car and if that is for the right things and the amount is consistent with good care over the car's life then that's fine and is in fact what you should be seeing, but how much is right? If you take a figure of 2K as being a conservative estimate per year to run a classic 911 and cover all of it's maintenance costs and servicing but not the boring stuff like fuel and insurance etc. then a 25 - 30 year old 911 should have receipts in tens of thousands of pounds (my own K series 'SC which is now 31 years old has had about 37K lavished on it so far) so when a seller of a 30 year old 911 announces ''bills for 15K''are they really telling you that little has been done to look after this car over it's lifetime?
The biggest area for concern, and one which is commonly glossed over in many ebay listings is the condition of the bodywork ie RUST. Some sellers would have you believe that the tiny spot of rust under the headlights and around the door-shuts etc. is nothing to worry about and wouldn't cost much to fix, however this IS something to worry about a lot and actually costs an arm and a leg to repair properly because if the value and integrity of the car are to be preserved then genuine, galvanised Porsche parts must be used and with one front wing currently costing around 600GBP you will begin to see that once labour costs and VAT are added this 'minor' repair is actually going to run into thousands. If you opt for the cheap and flimsy aftermarket panels you will end up doing it all again very soon anyway. This was my own car just before restoration. Doesn't look bad does it and similar to the sort of thing seen listed on ebay?................
Orignal From: Buying a GOOD used Classic Porsche 911 on eBay
Buying a compressor
Being a novice where compressors are concerned, it was difficult to know where to start in looking for one. I had been given some basic air tools and hose (blower gun, tyre inflator, spray gun) and thought I would buy a little compressor to run them.
First - tank size. I was advised that a 25 litre tank, whilst being ok for little jobs like using an air blower or occasional tyre inflation, was fine, it was a bit on the small side for paint spraying, where a bigger reserve of air is needed to get more consistent results - when the motor cuts in half way through spraying a panel, you might get a messy job. So, it seems that bigger is better when it comes to air storage, ie size of tank.
For my use, I decided that a 25 litre tank would probably fit the bill, since I am unlikely to want to use any high drain air tools like impact guns, air saws and the like. I started looking around and quickly realised that there is a bewildering choice out there. At first I was thinking 'stick with a name you know' so looked at Sealey, Draper and the like, selling at round the
Orignal From: Buying a compressor
First - tank size. I was advised that a 25 litre tank, whilst being ok for little jobs like using an air blower or occasional tyre inflation, was fine, it was a bit on the small side for paint spraying, where a bigger reserve of air is needed to get more consistent results - when the motor cuts in half way through spraying a panel, you might get a messy job. So, it seems that bigger is better when it comes to air storage, ie size of tank.
For my use, I decided that a 25 litre tank would probably fit the bill, since I am unlikely to want to use any high drain air tools like impact guns, air saws and the like. I started looking around and quickly realised that there is a bewildering choice out there. At first I was thinking 'stick with a name you know' so looked at Sealey, Draper and the like, selling at round the
Orignal From: Buying a compressor
Be aware of people who bid high, only to knock you down
Recent experience has shown, you may be an honest ebayer, but beware the person who bids a silly high price, just to win the auction with the intention to collect the item and make a derisory offer - which you refuse, quite rightly.
Orignal From: Be aware of people who bid high, only to knock you down
Orignal From: Be aware of people who bid high, only to knock you down
BMW E46 REAR LED LIGHTS COUPE
Hi these LED lights are available but please beware as many are cheap copies and will not fit and will also flash lights up on your dash board. When purchasing ensure the lights will pass an MOT, are legal, and will not show up on the dash.
Also, there are no aftermarket lights LED available for a convertible so please dont think the coupe will fit the convertible.
Hope this helps.
CarKitsUK1986
Orignal From: BMW E46 REAR LED LIGHTS COUPE
Also, there are no aftermarket lights LED available for a convertible so please dont think the coupe will fit the convertible.
Hope this helps.
CarKitsUK1986
Orignal From: BMW E46 REAR LED LIGHTS COUPE
Mr2 owners guide
Within the Mr2 world it is imperitive that we find parts for our beloved motors that are cheap and affordable, therefore if you need a part for your Mr2 do not go straight to toyota, you'll only be shocked and dissapointed!!
Orignal From: Mr2 owners guide
How to transfer a reg plate from one vehicle to another
How do I transfer a cherished number plate from vehicle to vehicle?Under
the DVLA cherished number plate transfer scheme, the DVLA in Swansea
allows the transfer of a personalised registration mark from one
vehicle to another.Below we have outlined the transfer
procedure which must be carried out through your local DVLA vehicle
registration office, not through a Post Office, as some people are led
to believe.If you would rather let an established and reputable
registration dealer handle the entire cherished transfer for you, then
we offer a paperwork only option on any registration mark for a nominal
fee. Whether you are a returning customer or whether you have purchased
your personalised registration elsewhere, we can help you with any
aspect of paperwork.To apply to transfer a mainland UK
cherished number plate you will first need to obtain the offical
transfer application form called a V317
(application to transfer a vehicle registration mark). You can pick up
a V317 form from your local DVLA vehicle registration office, or you
may download one from the ftreg.com website for free.(If you Google our
company name 'Finishing Touch Registrations' you will find our site,
then take a look on the right hand side menu of our hompage for 'DVLA
Transfer Form - V317', this will provide you with a FREE download of
the form you require) When you have the V317 transfer form you
will need to read through it very carefully to ensure that all vehicles
participating in the cherished transfer are legible and fall within all
of the DVLA rules governing the transfer of cherished number plates.You
will need to complete all areas of the V317 application form and then
take it into your local DVLA vehicle registration office along with the
vehicle documentation listed below for all vehicles taking part in the
cherished transfer.It is worth pointing out at this stage,
should you choose to use our transfer only service, because we are in
daily contact with our local DVLA transfer office your cherished
transfer application would be submitted by ourselves the day we receive
it from you. This not only saves you time driving out to your local
DVLA office, it also avoids the problem of having to compete for a
parking space in a nearby car park.Vehicle documentation required for the donor and the recipient vehicle
Orignal From: How to transfer a reg plate from one vehicle to another
the DVLA cherished number plate transfer scheme, the DVLA in Swansea
allows the transfer of a personalised registration mark from one
vehicle to another.Below we have outlined the transfer
procedure which must be carried out through your local DVLA vehicle
registration office, not through a Post Office, as some people are led
to believe.If you would rather let an established and reputable
registration dealer handle the entire cherished transfer for you, then
we offer a paperwork only option on any registration mark for a nominal
fee. Whether you are a returning customer or whether you have purchased
your personalised registration elsewhere, we can help you with any
aspect of paperwork.To apply to transfer a mainland UK
cherished number plate you will first need to obtain the offical
transfer application form called a V317
(application to transfer a vehicle registration mark). You can pick up
a V317 form from your local DVLA vehicle registration office, or you
may download one from the ftreg.com website for free.(If you Google our
company name 'Finishing Touch Registrations' you will find our site,
then take a look on the right hand side menu of our hompage for 'DVLA
Transfer Form - V317', this will provide you with a FREE download of
the form you require) When you have the V317 transfer form you
will need to read through it very carefully to ensure that all vehicles
participating in the cherished transfer are legible and fall within all
of the DVLA rules governing the transfer of cherished number plates.You
will need to complete all areas of the V317 application form and then
take it into your local DVLA vehicle registration office along with the
vehicle documentation listed below for all vehicles taking part in the
cherished transfer.It is worth pointing out at this stage,
should you choose to use our transfer only service, because we are in
daily contact with our local DVLA transfer office your cherished
transfer application would be submitted by ourselves the day we receive
it from you. This not only saves you time driving out to your local
DVLA office, it also avoids the problem of having to compete for a
parking space in a nearby car park.Vehicle documentation required for the donor and the recipient vehicle
Orignal From: How to transfer a reg plate from one vehicle to another
Replacing car brake pipes by Argh!Stop!
No one in the trade likes changing brake pipes. You have to work in the dirtiest rustiest crevices of the car. Clips break, pipe ends round, seize and strip. Brake fluid leaks down your sleeve and all the time you are hoping the bleed screws slacken and the master cylinder seals do not flip.So based on my years in the trade being landed with this job, here are my hints and tips on how to make the job easier and avoid crying in front of your mates!1. Preparation. Soak every brake pipe end and bleed screw you are likely to need to remove with WD40 or similar. Give the loose Juice a good 15 minutes to soak in. For stubborn ends or bleed screws, slowly pour boiling water over them. Heating them with a gas burner risks melting seals in wheel cylinders or callipers and plastic clips but boiling water, poured slowly usually does the trick.2. Cut the rot out! Do not bugg*r about with brake pipe spanners trying to take old brake pipes off. Cut the pipe with a decent pair of side cutters and get a tight fitting socket onto the end. You are going to be replacing the pipe anyway so why preserve it?
Orignal From: Replacing car brake pipes by Argh!Stop!
Orignal From: Replacing car brake pipes by Argh!Stop!
Buying a Used Discovery 3
Here are my top 5 tips when buying a used Discovery 3
Above and beyond the usual car-buying rules and tips, here are a few for you if you are looking to buy a used Discovery 3.
1. Check out the DISCO3.CO.UK website here you will find the biggest online resource for Discovery 3 owners with a wealth of information ready for you - including more indepth information ready for buying. You just need to ask through the forum and you'll be surprised by the level of knowledge
Orignal From: Buying a Used Discovery 3
Above and beyond the usual car-buying rules and tips, here are a few for you if you are looking to buy a used Discovery 3.
1. Check out the DISCO3.CO.UK website here you will find the biggest online resource for Discovery 3 owners with a wealth of information ready for you - including more indepth information ready for buying. You just need to ask through the forum and you'll be surprised by the level of knowledge
Orignal From: Buying a Used Discovery 3
BMW X5 buyers and owners guide
Firstly, I just want to make it clear...I am not slagging off these cars and this isn
Orignal From: BMW X5 buyers and owners guide
Orignal From: BMW X5 buyers and owners guide
Volov 850
While these are great cars you do have to be very careful when buying a used one. Should you be looking for an 850 never buy one thats done high mileage unless it has an excellent service history that you can check before handing your cash over. I wouldnt reccomend one as a tow car simply because they eat front tyures at the bets of times never moind when they have a trailer or caravan to tow as well. This also applies to the v70's up to 1999. I have no experience of the later v70's yet but look how many are in spares or repair on ebay is always a good guide especially ones with gearbox problems which are very expensive to fix.
The v40 is by far one of the best looking estate cars
Orignal From: Volov 850
The v40 is by far one of the best looking estate cars
Orignal From: Volov 850
Vauxhall Cars:E-type Cresta,Victor F-Type S2,Viscount
Vauxhall Cars 1950s and 1960s
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the eBay community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic Vauxhall car art featured in this guide please click here.
The 2,262cc PA Velox and Cresta six-cylinder models of 1957 were some of the best-looking British cars of the period with their sleek low lines. Original cars had long tailfins and a distinctive three-piece rear window. Later 1961 / 2 PADX / PASY Cresta / Veloxes had one-piece curved windows and 2,650cc engines.
E-type Cresta
The completely new E-type Wyverns and Veloxes with curved instead of flat windscreens and coil and wishbone independent front suspension appeared in 1951, but used the old L-type engines until spring 1952, when both were given more powerful 79.4 x 76.2mm engines. Minor styling changes were made to the E-types from 1954, when the fronts were altered, first with a grille of "waterfall" chrome strip covering the opening and then from 1956 this horizontal bar grille with the big V motif. From 1955 the Cresta had become the top model, priced at
Orignal From: Vauxhall Cars:E-type Cresta,Victor F-Type S2,Viscount
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the eBay community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic Vauxhall car art featured in this guide please click here.
The 2,262cc PA Velox and Cresta six-cylinder models of 1957 were some of the best-looking British cars of the period with their sleek low lines. Original cars had long tailfins and a distinctive three-piece rear window. Later 1961 / 2 PADX / PASY Cresta / Veloxes had one-piece curved windows and 2,650cc engines.
E-type Cresta
The completely new E-type Wyverns and Veloxes with curved instead of flat windscreens and coil and wishbone independent front suspension appeared in 1951, but used the old L-type engines until spring 1952, when both were given more powerful 79.4 x 76.2mm engines. Minor styling changes were made to the E-types from 1954, when the fronts were altered, first with a grille of "waterfall" chrome strip covering the opening and then from 1956 this horizontal bar grille with the big V motif. From 1955 the Cresta had become the top model, priced at
Orignal From: Vauxhall Cars:E-type Cresta,Victor F-Type S2,Viscount
Nissan Key / Keyfob Programming / Reprogramming
Hello everybody.
Firstly, I must apologise to all those who have purchased these instructions from me over the past few months.
From May this year, Ebay revised their Downloadable Media Policy
Orignal From: Nissan Key / Keyfob Programming / Reprogramming
Firstly, I must apologise to all those who have purchased these instructions from me over the past few months.
From May this year, Ebay revised their Downloadable Media Policy
Orignal From: Nissan Key / Keyfob Programming / Reprogramming
Morgan Sports Car: Plus 8, Plus 4,4/4 Series 2-5
Morgan Cars
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the eBay community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic Morgan sports car art featured in this guide please click here.
Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan started out as a railway apprentice at Swindon, but in 1906, and with the blessing of his clergyman father, opened his own garage in Malvern Link. Three years later he designed a lightweight chassis for a three-wheeler to take an air-cooled vee-twin engine and commissioned Mr Stephenson Peach, engineering master at nearby Malvern College to machine components for him. The tiller-steered single-seater prototype became the forerunner of over 15,000 Morgan three-wheelers made until 1952. Four-wheeled production started in 1936 with the 4-4 (4 wheels, 4 seats) and in essence the cars have changed little to the present day. Still occupying its Pickersleigh Road, Malvern Link factory, Morgan has remained 100% family owned and is truly unique amongst British sports-car manufacturers. This guide features a selection of six classic Morgans from the F-type 4-cylinder model of 1933 to the V8-engined Plus 8 of 1968.
Morgan Three Wheeled Morgan 1912-1952
The Morgan three-wheeler arrived on the scene in 1912, before the cyclecar craze that hit its peak in the 1920s, and it outlasted every other make of cyclecar, for the last Morgan three-wheeler was built in 1952. It owed its longevity not only to ingenious design, which enabled it to combine low weight with high performance but also to the business acumen of HFS Morgan. The F4 model was introduced in 1933 and featured the car-derived Ford 8HP four-cylinder engine.
Morgan 4-4 Series 1 1936-1950
Called the 4-4, standing for four wheels, four cylinders, Morgan announced their first four-wheeler in "The Light Car and Cyclecar" in 1935. The prototype was based on the Morgan F-type chassis and powered by a Ford 993cc side valve engine, although production models would be fitted with the more powerful and sporty 34bhp Coventry Climax 1122cc engine and later the 39bhp Standard "Special" engine, retrospectively known as the Series I.
Morgan 4/4 Series 2-5 1955-1968
In 1954, after a gap of four years, Morgan re-introduced the 4/4 as a lower powered more economical model to run alongside Plus 4. The new 4/4 was a fully cowled model whereas the last 4/4 had been a "flat-rad" and the engine was a Ford, rather than Standard Triumph product. This revived ties that went back to the days of the three-wheelers. As Ford changed its engines, Morgan followed and the 4/4's performance improved as it went through the 105E Anglia (Series III), 109E Classic (Series IV) and 116E Cortina (Series V) engines.
Morgan Plus 4 1950-1969
The Plus in Plus 4 stands for extra power, provided in the first instance by the four cylinders of the 2038cc Standard Vanguard engine and then by the engines of the Triumph TRs. Introduced in 1950, the two-seater reached production first, followed by the four-seater and the coupe within the space of a year. By 1954, after some experimentation, the classic "high-cowled" style was achieved.
Morgan Plus 4 Plus 1963-1966
The 1960s was a difficult time for the company. Morgan's old-fashioned styling was out of vogue and competition was fierce with an ever increasing array of new sports cars on offer from the likes of MG, Triumph and Lotus. In an attempt to modernise the Morgan, the Plus 4 Plus was introduced in 1964. It used a Plus 4 chassis, with the same TR4/TR4A engine, exhaust system, gearbox and back axle as the standard Plus 4 of the time. The body however was a fixed-head coupe, with two doors and an externally opening boot. Only 26 were made in two years.
Morgan Plus 8 1968 on
The introduction of the Rover V8-engined Morgan Plus 8 in 1968 added a genuine high-performance model to the company's range. Retaining Morgan's traditional design, with styling as the Plus 4, the Plus 8 addressed the needs of the Morgan's sporting customers. Enthusiastically received by the motoring press and tested by Autocar in September 1968, a prototype Plus 8 achieved a maximum speed of 124mph and 0-60 mph in 6.7 seconds.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Orignal From: Morgan Sports Car: Plus 8, Plus 4,4/4 Series 2-5
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the eBay community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic Morgan sports car art featured in this guide please click here.
Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan started out as a railway apprentice at Swindon, but in 1906, and with the blessing of his clergyman father, opened his own garage in Malvern Link. Three years later he designed a lightweight chassis for a three-wheeler to take an air-cooled vee-twin engine and commissioned Mr Stephenson Peach, engineering master at nearby Malvern College to machine components for him. The tiller-steered single-seater prototype became the forerunner of over 15,000 Morgan three-wheelers made until 1952. Four-wheeled production started in 1936 with the 4-4 (4 wheels, 4 seats) and in essence the cars have changed little to the present day. Still occupying its Pickersleigh Road, Malvern Link factory, Morgan has remained 100% family owned and is truly unique amongst British sports-car manufacturers. This guide features a selection of six classic Morgans from the F-type 4-cylinder model of 1933 to the V8-engined Plus 8 of 1968.
Morgan Three Wheeled Morgan 1912-1952
The Morgan three-wheeler arrived on the scene in 1912, before the cyclecar craze that hit its peak in the 1920s, and it outlasted every other make of cyclecar, for the last Morgan three-wheeler was built in 1952. It owed its longevity not only to ingenious design, which enabled it to combine low weight with high performance but also to the business acumen of HFS Morgan. The F4 model was introduced in 1933 and featured the car-derived Ford 8HP four-cylinder engine.
Morgan 4-4 Series 1 1936-1950
Called the 4-4, standing for four wheels, four cylinders, Morgan announced their first four-wheeler in "The Light Car and Cyclecar" in 1935. The prototype was based on the Morgan F-type chassis and powered by a Ford 993cc side valve engine, although production models would be fitted with the more powerful and sporty 34bhp Coventry Climax 1122cc engine and later the 39bhp Standard "Special" engine, retrospectively known as the Series I.
Morgan 4/4 Series 2-5 1955-1968
In 1954, after a gap of four years, Morgan re-introduced the 4/4 as a lower powered more economical model to run alongside Plus 4. The new 4/4 was a fully cowled model whereas the last 4/4 had been a "flat-rad" and the engine was a Ford, rather than Standard Triumph product. This revived ties that went back to the days of the three-wheelers. As Ford changed its engines, Morgan followed and the 4/4's performance improved as it went through the 105E Anglia (Series III), 109E Classic (Series IV) and 116E Cortina (Series V) engines.
Morgan Plus 4 1950-1969
The Plus in Plus 4 stands for extra power, provided in the first instance by the four cylinders of the 2038cc Standard Vanguard engine and then by the engines of the Triumph TRs. Introduced in 1950, the two-seater reached production first, followed by the four-seater and the coupe within the space of a year. By 1954, after some experimentation, the classic "high-cowled" style was achieved.
Morgan Plus 4 Plus 1963-1966
The 1960s was a difficult time for the company. Morgan's old-fashioned styling was out of vogue and competition was fierce with an ever increasing array of new sports cars on offer from the likes of MG, Triumph and Lotus. In an attempt to modernise the Morgan, the Plus 4 Plus was introduced in 1964. It used a Plus 4 chassis, with the same TR4/TR4A engine, exhaust system, gearbox and back axle as the standard Plus 4 of the time. The body however was a fixed-head coupe, with two doors and an externally opening boot. Only 26 were made in two years.
Morgan Plus 8 1968 on
The introduction of the Rover V8-engined Morgan Plus 8 in 1968 added a genuine high-performance model to the company's range. Retaining Morgan's traditional design, with styling as the Plus 4, the Plus 8 addressed the needs of the Morgan's sporting customers. Enthusiastically received by the motoring press and tested by Autocar in September 1968, a prototype Plus 8 achieved a maximum speed of 124mph and 0-60 mph in 6.7 seconds.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Orignal From: Morgan Sports Car: Plus 8, Plus 4,4/4 Series 2-5
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